I picked up my friend at the Windhoek airport then we spent the day in town. We left early the next morning to drive to Sesriem. However, the small town of Sesriem is not a destination in itself. Instead, we were traveling there to see Sesriem Canyon and then travel onward to Sossusvlei pan. Additionally, Sesriem is in close proximity to the Naukluft Mountains.
There is an assortment of accommodation near Sesriem that are all within a reasonable drive of our destinations. We ended up staying near the foothills of the Naukluft mountains. From there, it was a 50 kilometer drive to the Sossusvlei and Sesriem Canyon entry points. Therefore, we had an easy drive the next morning when we went to explore these areas.
From Windhoek to Sesriem
The route to Sesriem from Windhoek starts out on C26. This is the same starting point as when I took the Gamsberg pass over to Swakopmund. Take C26 out of Windhoek but this time do not veer to the west. Keep going straight and branch off of C26 going south, then pass on the east side of the Gamsberg Mountain. Then continue until you reach C14 and go left towards Sesriem. Don’t turn right, that would bring you to Walvis Bay.
These directions are intentionally vague and you need to map it out yourself. I found the drive to be rather simple, but not nearly as scenic and exciting as either the Gamsberg or the Bosua Pass.
Sesriem Canyon Water Source
After arriving at our accommodation we settled in and went out for a bit of exploring. In the desert savannah surrounding our lodge, there were some dried up river beds. However, they are filled with water when it rains heavily enough up in the nearby Naukluft Mountains.
Furthermore, the Naukluft owes its name to the narrow (Afrikaans: nau) gorges (Afrikaans: kloof). The Naukluft Mountains have some great hiking options and I intend to pursue this on my next visit to Namibia.
Social Weaver Birds
During our sunset adventure we got a closer look at some giant communal bird nests. The giant nests are constructed by the social weaver bird. These birds build giant nest compounds and live together socially, which is a rarity among birds. Additionally, their nests are considered to be one of the most spectacular structures built by any bird.
Indeed, the nests are common sight in Namibia, I saw them many times while traveling through the countryside. Furthermore, the social weaver is in the Passeridae bird species family and is native to southern Africa. It is found in Namibia, South Africa and Botswana.
The next morning we set out for the Sesriem Canyon. First thing to do is stop by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism office in Sesriem and pay the Sesriem Canyon entrance fee.
History of the Sesriem Canyon
The Sesriem Canyon was named by the first settlers to the area. They used 6 lengths of rope to scoop water out of the bottom of the canyon. As a result, the name of the Sesriem canyon is based on the Afrikaans word for six lengths of rope which is “ses rieme”.
The sporadically flowing river at the base of the Sesriem Canyon is called the Tsauchab River. Indeed, river flow levels depend on climate conditions in the nearby Naukluft and Tsaris Mountains. Therefore, during times of heavy rainfall, the river flows regularly. But otherwise, water is sparsely found
Hundreds of thousands of years ago the river flowed all the way to the Atlantic Ocean. However, in modern times the river only flows sporadically after rainfall. Then it only continues about 65 kilometers into the desert before it permeates into the Sossusvlei.
Geology of the Sesriem Canyon
The geology of the Sesriem Canyon can be observed by descending into the canyon itself. Inside the canyon, you can read the geological layers that have been incised through by the Tsauchab River.
Furthermore, at the bottom of the canyon you can easily spot the fossilized sand of the Tsondab Sandstone Formation. This is the remains of a 200 meter thick sand desert that covered large parts of Namibia 20 million years ago.
It is fascinating that the sands of today’s Namib Desert (the oldest desert in the world) is actually sitting on the fossilized remains of a 20 million year old desert. The Tsondab Sandstone Formation is also exposed in other areas of Namibia.
Climate Volatility Created Sesriem Canyon
During the 20 million years since the Tsondab desert existed, the world’s climate has dramatically fluctuated. As a result, the climate moved from extreme arid condition, such as exist today, back to wetter periods, and also ice ages. All of these occurrences effected the severity of the water flowing down from the nearby mountains and escarpment.
During periods of heavy rainfall lots of debris was washed down from the mountains and formed huge alluvial fans. The walls of the Sesriem Canyon have recorded all of these climate changes going back millions of years. Therefore, geologists can read the entire climate history of the region on the walls of Sesriem Canyon.
For example, layers of heavy conglomerate rock indicates periods of heavy rainfall. Evidence of periods of extreme arid conditions are seen by the smaller grained deposits such as the Tsondab Sandstone.
- Namibia – Fascination of Geology A Travel Handbook by Nicole Grunert